How to Remove a Stripped Screw: 7 Proven Methods

7 Ways to Get a Stripped Screw Out (Ranked by Ease)

A stripped screw -- where the driver bit spins uselessly in the mangled head -- is one of the most common frustrations in DIY work. I've dealt with thousands of them over the years in my workshop, and I can tell you the fix is almost always simpler than it looks once you know which method to reach for first. It happens when the bit slips, when you use the wrong size driver, when you're driving at an angle, or when the screw is just plain cheap. Here are seven methods to remove a stripped screw, starting with the easiest and escalating to the most aggressive.

Method 1: The Rubber Band Trick

Best for: Screws that are only partially stripped

This is always my first move and it works far more often than people expect. The science behind it is simple: the rubber fills in the gaps left by the damaged drive recess, increasing the surface area in contact with your bit and giving it something to push against. Even a screw with moderately worn-out Phillips channels can often be coaxed out this way.

1. Place a wide rubber band flat over the screw head, covering the entire drive recess
2. Press your screwdriver or drill bit firmly into the screw through the rubber band -- you want to compress the rubber into the recess
3. Apply strong downward pressure while turning slowly counterclockwise
4. Keep the pressure constant -- the moment you ease up, the bit will cam out again

The rubber fills the damaged gaps in the screw head, creating enough friction to turn it. This works about 60% of the time on partially stripped screws and costs nothing. On fully rounded-out heads where there's no recess geometry left at all, skip straight to Method 3.

Method 2: Locking Pliers

Best for: Screws with the head above the surface

When a screw is proud of the work surface -- meaning the head is sticking up rather than flush or countersunk -- locking pliers are your fastest path to removal. The key is getting a solid mechanical grip rather than a friction grip. Adjust the pliers so they bite hard into the screw head before you start turning.

1. Set the adjustment on your locking pliers so they'll clamp firmly onto the screw head without slipping
2. Clamp them onto the widest point of the screw head -- for a hex or pan head screw, grab across the flats
3. Squeeze the lock until the jaws are biting into the metal
4. Turn counterclockwise with a steady, controlled motion -- don't jerk
5. If the screw begins to turn but then stops, rock it slightly back and forth (loosening and retightening slightly) to break any rust or adhesive bond before continuing out

This only works when there's enough screw head exposed to grip -- at least 1/8 inch of head above the surface. For flush or countersunk screws, skip to Method 3. For screws in soft wood, be aware that the pliers can leave impressions in the surrounding material, so protect the surface with a piece of cardboard or cloth if appearance matters.

Method 3: Screw Extractor Bit

Best for: Fully stripped screws in any position

A screw extractor kit is the most reliable tool for a badly stripped fastener, and every serious workshop should have one. The kit uses reverse-cut spiral flutes that dig into a pilot hole as you turn counterclockwise -- meaning the harder you push, the tighter the grip. I've pulled out screws that were so destroyed the head was nearly smooth, and the extractor still worked.

1. Select a left-hand drill bit slightly smaller than the screw's minor diameter -- most extractor kits include a sizing chart
2. Using a drill set to reverse (counterclockwise), drill a pilot hole straight down into the center of the screw head to a depth of about 1/4 inch
3. Select the appropriately sized screw extractor from the set
4. Insert the extractor into the pilot hole by hand first to confirm it seats properly
5. Using a T-handle, drill (set to reverse/counterclockwise), or socket, apply firm downward pressure while turning counterclockwise
6. The reverse spiral flutes will bite into the walls of the pilot hole and back the screw out
7. Once the screw starts moving, continue slowly -- don't rush or the extractor can break off inside the hole

Screw extractor sets handle screws from #4 through 3/8 inch diameter. This is the most reliable method for stubborn, fully stripped screws and worth the investment if you do any amount of repair or construction work.

Method 4: Cut a New Slot with a Rotary Tool

Best for: Accessible screws where the head is reachable from above

When the Phillips or Torx recess is destroyed but the screw head is still intact, cutting a brand new flathead slot gives you a fresh drive surface to work with. This works well on screws in wood, drywall, or light metal -- anywhere a rotary cutting disc can access the head cleanly.

1. Install a thin metal cutting disc on your Dremel or rotary tool
2. Hold the tool steady and cut a straight slot across the full diameter of the screw head -- aim for about 1/16 inch deep
3. Clean out any metal shavings or debris from the new slot
4. Insert a flat-blade screwdriver that fits the slot width tightly
5. Apply firm downward pressure while turning counterclockwise

The depth of the cut matters: too shallow and the screwdriver will cam out; too deep and you weaken the screw head enough that it might shear off. Aim for a slot that's about 1/3 the height of the screw head.

Method 5: Hammer Tap

Best for: Screws in soft wood that just need a nudge to seat the bit

Sometimes a stripped Phillips head just needs a sharper initial engagement. The impact from a hammer tap can seat the bit deeper into the damaged recess than hand pressure alone, and the shock can also help break the screw free if it's slightly seized. This is a one-shot technique -- use it before trying anything else if the screw is only mildly stripped.

1. Select the correct size driver bit that fits your screw head type
2. Place the bit firmly in the stripped drive recess and push down hard
3. Using a hammer, give the back of the screwdriver handle a single firm tap -- not a series of taps, just one decisive blow
4. The impact seats the bit deeper into the recess -- immediately begin turning counterclockwise while maintaining strong downward pressure
5. Don't let up on the pressure or the bit will cam out again as you turn

An impact screwdriver (a manual tool specifically designed for this purpose, different from a power impact driver) uses the same principle but applies the turning force simultaneously with the impact -- making it even more effective. These are available for under $20 and are worth having around for stuck or corroded fasteners.

Method 6: Drill It Out

Best for: Last resort when the screw absolutely must come out

Drilling out a screw is destructive to the fastener and sometimes to the surrounding material, but it's the guaranteed solution when nothing else works. The goal is to destroy the screw's shank so it can be separated from the material, then remove the remaining pieces. This is common on seized bolts in metal, corroded deck screws, and any screw that's been there so long it's become part of the structure.

1. Select a drill bit slightly smaller than the screw's outer diameter -- you want to drill through the core without removing the threads
2. Use a center punch to create a starting dimple directly in the center of the screw head so the bit doesn't walk
3. Drill straight down through the center of the screw at a slow, controlled speed
4. Once you've drilled through the head, the material above the threads should release
5. Use pliers to extract any remaining shank material from the hole
6. If thread remnants remain in a wood substrate, they can often be picked out; in metal, you may need to re-tap the hole

This destroys the screw and will enlarge the hole somewhat, so you'll likely need to fill and re-drill if you need to drive a new fastener in the same spot. In wood, a wooden toothpick or golf tee glued into the hole and trimmed flush gives the new screw solid material to grip.

Method 7: Super Glue Method

Best for: Delicate situations where you can't apply much force

This is the gentlest method in the toolkit and works surprisingly well on small screws in electronics, furniture, or other delicate assemblies where aggressive methods would cause collateral damage. CA (cyanoacrylate) glue, better known as super glue, forms a rigid bond quickly and can give your bit just enough purchase to back the screw out slowly.

1. Make sure the screw head and your driver bit tip are both clean and free of oil or debris
2. Apply a single small drop of super glue (CA glue) to the tip of your driver bit -- you want just enough to fill the gap, not so much that it runs
3. Press the bit firmly into the stripped screw head and hold steady without turning for 60 seconds -- longer is better
4. Once the glue has set, turn slowly and steadily counterclockwise while maintaining downward pressure
5. If the bond breaks, clean both surfaces with acetone and try again with fresh glue

This is the least reliable method overall but the best choice when you can't risk damaging surrounding material. Works best on small screws (#4 to #10) where other methods might be too aggressive.

Choosing the Right Method Based on How Bad the Damage Is

Not all stripped screws are equal. The right method depends on how much drive geometry is left, how accessible the screw head is, and what kind of material you're working in. Here's how to read the damage and choose accordingly.

Mildly Stripped (Drive Recess Still Partially Intact)

The bit still catches but slips under power. Try Methods 1 and 5 first -- the rubber band and hammer tap. The goal is to get traction on whatever drive geometry remains. Use a hand screwdriver rather than a drill so you can modulate pressure more precisely. If the screw is in soft wood, the hammer tap is often all you need. Keep downward pressure at least equal to your turning force -- most bits slip out because people push sideways instead of into the screw.

Fully Stripped (Drive Recess Destroyed, Head Intact)

The bit finds nothing to grip -- it just spins on a smooth surface. This is the most common presentation after an impact driver goes to town on a Phillips screw. Method 4 (cutting a new slot) is the fastest path if the head is accessible. Method 3 (screw extractor) is the most reliable if you want maximum success rate. Method 2 (locking pliers) works if any head is exposed above the surface.

Head Broken Off or Flush-Set Screw

The worst scenario -- nothing visible to grip. A screw extractor (Method 3) is your only realistic option at this point. You'll need to drill a clean pilot hole directly into the shank. If the shank is flush with the surface, use a center punch to mark the exact center before drilling. Patience is critical here -- rushing the extractor risks breaking it off in the hole, which creates a much harder problem.

Step-by-Step: Using a Screw Extractor Kit

A screw extractor kit is the most reliable tool for stubborn stripped screws. Here's the full procedure done right, from start to finish.

1. Identify the screw size. Check the extractor kit's sizing chart. Match the extractor to the approximate outer diameter of the screw. Most kits cover #6 through 1/2 inch. When in doubt, size down -- a smaller extractor bites aggressively; too large a hole removes too much material.
2. Select the correct left-hand drill bit. The kit includes a matched drill bit for each extractor. Left-hand bits are designed to drill counterclockwise, which means a binding or corroded screw may actually start backing out during the drilling step before you even use the extractor.
3. Mark the center. Use a center punch and hammer to create a small dimple directly in the center of the screw head. This prevents the drill bit from walking and ensures the pilot hole goes straight down the shank axis.
4. Drill the pilot hole. Set your drill to reverse (counterclockwise) and use slow speed. Drill straight into the center of the screw to a depth of about 1/4 to 3/8 inch. Apply steady downward pressure. If the screw starts rotating during drilling, you may be able to back it out without the extractor.
5. Insert the extractor. Push the extractor into the pilot hole by hand to confirm it seats without wobble. The extractor has a tapered, reverse-threaded spiral tip that bites the walls of the hole as it's turned counterclockwise.
6. Apply torque. Use the T-handle included with the kit, a tap wrench, or a socket and ratchet. Apply firm, steady downward pressure while turning counterclockwise. Do not jerk or apply sudden force -- extractors are hardened steel but can be brittle under shock loading.
7. Drive it out. Once the extractor bites and the screw begins to turn, continue slowly. Keep the angle straight to avoid the extractor binding in the hole. The screw should back out in 5 to 10 turns once it breaks loose.
8. Clean up. Remove any metal debris from the hole. If you're in wood and the hole is enlarged, use the toothpick-and-glue method to restore a solid substrate before driving a replacement screw.

Prevention: How to Never Strip a Screw Again

The best stripped screw is one you never create. Most stripping happens from poor technique, wrong bit sizes, or cheap fasteners -- all entirely preventable.

• Use the correct bit size every time. A #2 Phillips is not interchangeable with a #1 or #3. The size is usually stamped on the screw head or identifiable by the recess depth. Using an undersized bit is the single most common cause of stripping -- the bit rocks in the recess and destroys the drive geometry in seconds. Take 10 seconds to verify the size before driving.
• Apply downward pressure equal to or greater than your turning force. Push as hard as you turn. Most people apply lots of rotational force and almost no axial force. The result is a bit that cams out and rounds the recess. Get your body weight behind the screwdriver or use a driver bit with a longer handle for better leverage.
• Set the clutch on your drill/driver correctly. If your drill's clutch is set too high, it will keep driving after the screw is seated and strip it. Start low and increase until the screw drives fully without overtightening. The click of the clutch should happen just as the screw head reaches the surface.
• Use quality screws from reputable manufacturers. Cheap screws -- particularly imported bulk packs -- have soft steel heads that strip under normal driving force. Brands like GRK, Spax, and Simpson Strong-Tie use hardened steel and precision drive recesses that grip far better under power driving. The price difference is small; the stripping difference is large.
• Switch to Torx or square-drive fasteners for structural work. Phillips head screws were designed for a manufacturing process -- not for the kind of torque a modern impact driver delivers. Torx (star drive) and Robertson (square drive) heads maintain engagement under high torque without cam-out. Every deck, framing job, or assembly that uses impact drivers should be using these drive types.
• Keep your bits sharp and replace them when worn. A worn driver bit has rounded lobes that can't grip a fresh screw head properly. Bits are cheap -- a worn bit that strips five screws costs far more than a fresh bit. Replace impact-driver bits every few months of regular use.

FAQ

Does the rubber band trick actually work?

Yes, for partially stripped screws it works surprisingly well. It fails on fully rounded-out heads, but it's always worth trying first since it takes 10 seconds and costs nothing. The thicker and grippier the rubber, the better it works -- a piece of latex glove or a section of rubber grip tape can outperform a standard rubber band.

What size screw extractor do I need?

Extractors come in sets with multiple sizes. Match the extractor to your screw by checking the kit's sizing chart, which pairs each extractor to a screw size range. As a rule of thumb, the drill bit for the pilot hole should be about 60% of the screw's outer diameter. When in doubt, start with a smaller pilot hole -- you can always enlarge it, but you can't make it smaller.

Can I reuse a stripped screw?

No. A stripped screw has lost the drive geometry that allows a bit to grip it. Even if you get it out intact, driving it again will strip it immediately -- or worse, the first time you need to remove it in the future, you'll be in the same situation. Always replace with a new screw, preferably one with a Torx or square drive head so it resists stripping under power.

My screw extractor broke off in the hole. Now what?

A broken extractor is a real problem because the hardened steel is nearly impossible to drill through with standard bits. Your options are: use carbide drill bits designed for hardened steel, take the workpiece to a machine shop for EDM (electrical discharge machining) removal, or -- in wood -- drill out the entire area around the extractor with a spade bit and fill with epoxy wood filler before re-drilling. Prevention is far easier: never apply sudden jerking force to an extractor. Slow, steady pressure is always the right technique.

Why does my screwdriver keep slipping even on a good screw?

Most bit slippage on non-stripped screws is a technique problem, not a tool problem. Make sure you're using the right bit size, that the bit is fully seated in the recess (not rocking at an angle), and that you're applying downward pressure equal to your turning force. If the bit is worn -- smooth, rounded lobes instead of sharp ones -- replace it. A fresh #2 Phillips bit from a quality brand like Wera or Klein makes an immediately noticeable difference in engagement quality.

What's the easiest method if I don't have any special tools?

The rubber band method requires nothing more than a standard screwdriver and a rubber band -- both of which most households have. If that fails, a pair of standard needle-nose or regular pliers can grip a proud screw head well enough to turn it out. The hammer tap method requires only a screwdriver and a hammer. You can solve most partially-stripped screws with tools you already own.